How It’s Made: Dripline

Landscape Products likens how the company makes its pressure-compensating dripline to a favorite family recipe—other recipes may look the same, but they’re never quite as good.

The company believes it has perfected its “recipe” for a durable and functional pressure-compensating (PC) dripline.

Based just outside of Phoenix in Tolleson, Ariz., Landscape Products has been supplying drip/micro irrigation products, valves, sprinklers, and other landscape and agriculture products since 1978.

The company began manufacturing its PC dripline in 2009, said Fermin Perez, sales and marketing manager for Landscape Products.

PC dripline has been growing in popularity for its easy installation and water conserving capabilities compared to other irrigation options. It’s typically used above ground or under mulch, often to irrigate hedges and groundcover on commercial landscapes and large gardens.

The pressure-compensating emitters, integrated into the dripline, adjust to varying water pressures ensuring a consistent flow rate (Landscape Products offers 0.6 or 0.9 GPH PC emitters).

Despite the simplicity that PC dripline provides in landscapes, manufacturing the product is a complex process that Landscape Products has aimed to perfect.

The company produces thousands of feet per day of their 17-millimeter PC dripline. Like Landscape Products’ other dripline products, the process begins with a high-grade linear low density polyethylene (LLDPE) resin, in the form of small, colorless beads or pellets.

“It’s the best there is for the application,” said Jose Flores, plant manager.

While other dripline manufacturers may use recycled plastics in their products, Landscape Products uses only virgin resin for a longer lasting product. Recycled plastics can introduce impurities into the tubing, causing weak spots and possible bursting, said Flores.

“That way our customers get fewer headaches,” Flores said.

The poly pellets are melted and mixed with a color concentrate and UV inhibitor, which protects the material from breaking down over time. The mix is filtered through a fine mesh screen to remove any other potential impurities.

Next, the mixture is pushed through an extruder machine, shaping the resin into a tube, which is formed around the emitters that are spaced every 12 or 18 inches in the line. The temperature of the resin must be just right to properly bond with the plastic emitter before the tube travels through tanks of water and an air blower to cool and dry.

Once it has cooled, a perforator or drill punches two holes through the tube at each emitter. The dual outlets reduce the possibility of clogging. The emitters are also designed with built in maze-like channels that also help flush sand or other particles out, preventing clogs.

Then an ink-jet printer imprints information on the tube, such as the product description and the date of manufacture.

The dripline is inspected and samples are taken to undergo checks for quality assurance.

One check is performed by cutting a cross section of the dripline and looking for any signs of improper adhesion of the emitter to the tube.

Other samples are also taken throughout the day to test the flow rates at various pressure levels. A section of dripline is connected to an automatic flow tester that records the flow rates. The data is reviewed to ensure the emitters are delivering the right amount of water.

Finally, workers wind the dripline into 100- and 500-foot coils ready to be shipped out to suppliers across the country.

Although most of the process for producing their dripline is highly mechanized, the company’s skilled craftsmen and operators—each with more than a decade of experience in manufacturing and extrusion—are also key to producing a top-quality product.

“From assembly to packaging to shipping, the Landscape Products manufacturing team goes to great lengths to produce and deliver products of the highest caliber. The 17mm dripline manufacturing group takes great pride in delivering nothing but the best,” Perez said.

Landscape Products hopes their recipe for high quality dripline will become a favorite among customers.

Light-emitting diode (LED) technology for landscape lighting has arrived. Make no mistake about it, LED is here to stay, and will soon become the light source of choice replacing less efficient lamps. As a landscape lighting contractor, if you are not familiar with this technology and haven’t applied it to your jobs, it’s time to get started or you might get left behind. Let’s explore the benefits of selling energy efficient LED technology.

Benefits to the contractor
LED is 50 to 70 percent more efficient than the standard incandescent halogen lamps. For example, compare light output in a 5-watt LED to a 20-watt halogen lamp. From an installation standpoint, you can put more 5-watt fixtures than 20-watt fixtures on a single wire run from the transformer. At a 100-foot wire circuit, you can effectively attach five halogen fixtures at 20 watts for a total of 100 watts. Switch to 5-watt LEDs and the number jumps to 20 fixtures on the same circuit. This can result in a huge savings, not only on labor, but also material costs, such as wire and smaller transformers.

You’ll have the peace of mind knowing you are doing your part to save energy and reduce carbon dioxide emissions. An incandescent lamp produces light with only 20 percent of the energy it uses, while the other 80 percent is released as heat. LEDs require different amounts of electricity, but in general use more energy to directly emit light than to create waste heat.

LEDs can better handle voltage drop, the reduction of voltage caused when a current passes through a circuit’s wire. Unlike LEDs, conventional halogen lighting systems can accept only a small voltage reduction, even as little as one volt, before wasting energy and becoming inefficient. LEDs can accept a greater amount, generally between nine to 15 volts.

Benefits to the customer

Upselling an LED lighting system to an end user requires some knowledge between the differences between LEDs and halogen. LEDs offer a longer lamp life compared to halogen. Lamp life on an LED light source is rated at 50,000 hours, while halogen lamp life is typically 5,000 to 10,000 hours. The longer lamp life of LED sources not only reduces lamp replacements, but also saves on electricity costs. A 50,000-hour lamp can last more than 17 years, on an average lighting system burning six to eight hours a night.

Is cost a factor? To truly define the benefits of an LED lighting system, help customers understand how it will pay for itself over time in electricity savings and maintenance costs. Instead of focusing on the cost to install an LED system, explain it to your customers in terms of cost per hour of light. An energy-efficient lighting system will save on costs in the long run, which leads us to the cost of ownership.

Cost of ownership

Explaining cost of ownership is without a doubt the easiest way to close the sale. We are asking a potential client to spend more of his hard-earned money up front to save on costs down the road. Simply saying, “Mr. or Mrs. Client, by choosing an energy-efficient LED system you will save money for years to come,” will not close the sale. But being able to explain and demonstrate the savings based on the system wattage requirement you are proposing in an illustrated worksheet will confirm you are on top of your game. This is what will separate you from your competitors and help you close more sales.

For example, let’s illustrate the cost of ownership over a ten-year period using a 50-fixture 20-watt halogen package versus a 50-fixture 5-watt LED package. The halogen package consists of 1,000 watts versus 250 watts for the LED. We will assume the lighting system will operate for eight hours a night, at a cost of $0.134 per kilowatt-hour (the 2011 national average).

Potential electricity costs
Let’s start with the halogen 1,000-watt system:

1,000 watts x 8 hours / 1,000 = 8 kilowatt-hours x $0.134 = $1.072 per day x 365 = $391.28 per year

The numbers for a LED 250-watt system:

250 watts x 8 hours/1,000 = 2 kilowatt-hours x $0.134 = $0.268 per day x 365 = $97.82 per year

The difference of $293.46, multiplied by 10 years, equals a potential savings of $2,934.60 in electricity costs.

Now look at lamp change-outs for a 10-year period. A halogen lamp will burn for 5,000 hours and require six change-outs. That comes to 300 lamps, and at $8 each the total becomes $2,400 before including a contractor’s labor costs.

The LED will require no change outs.

Potential maintenance costs

What if we add the labor costs to those six halogen change-outs?

Three hours per change-out at $85 an hour equals $255. Multiply that by six change-outs and the cost becomes $1,530.

Total savings

So now we can compile the savings over a 10-year cost of ownership:

• Electricity: $2,934.60

• Lamp change outs: $2,400

• Labor: $1,530

• Total: $6,864.60

This hypothetical system could save the end user $6,864.60 over the course of 10 years. Having the knowledge to upsell LED landscape lighting is a great way to grow your annual sales and put more profit in the bank.

Investing in a lighting system that could pay you back the difference on the upgrade to LED in four years, and save you money each year thereafter, just makes plain sense. So remember, speak in terms of cost per hours of light and ownership of cost. You will be well on your way to being an all-star energy efficient landscape lighting expert.

Get some oxygen where it counts!  AERATE, AERATE, AERATE!  Over the winter, spring, and summer your soil has become compacted.  Doing a thorough aeration before overseeding can help relieve this compaction.  The more you do the better it will be.  While you have the soil open add some organics that will increase the biology in your soil.  The microorganisms, that help your plants survive, need the oxygen to survive.  More attention needs to be paid to the area where your plants roots are.  By working the soil and increasing activity in the root system, you will notice a healthier and easier to maintain lawn

MOLES!!! They seem to be tunneling rampant here in Tennesssee and surrounding areas! We had several inquires regarding mole control at the Nashville Lawn & Garden Show last month. If you visited us there and purchased our mole control products……we thank you…….and I’m sure that you are also now part of our Talpirid fan club as are many of our customers! We carry two products…..Talpirid bait and Aloft granular insecticide. There are several bait systems out there to choose from but Talpirid sets itself apart from the rest….backed with extensive testing proving that it is the most preferred food source for moles next to earthworms. Aloft is a two ingredient insecticide that not only eliminates grubs but will control surface feeders as well such as….ticks and fleas.

Send In Your Lawn Photos!
We want to see what you have done! Will be collecting photos to post on our website or the next newsletter to show off your efforts.

oming up next month……. tips on Bermuda Control in Fescue Lawns!

Remember Calcium Needs
Before Summer Months!

Second to the three most important nutrients…..nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium…….is Calcium. Calcium is the most neglected nutrient for plants. Calcium is needed to aid in summer time stress……it builds the cell walls for an increased resistance to disease and drought. Solu-Cal is recommended over regular calcitic limes largely due to the carboxy organic acid contained in Solu-Cal. Carboxy acid with calcium becomes instantly available whereas a regular lime could take 6 months to 2 years before soluble to plants. One – 50lb bag of Solu-Cal replaces five – 40lb bags of lime.

Annuals Planting Time – After April 15th!

We carry all your needs from start to finish:

Erth Food Compost – for amending the soil
T-Methyl granular fungicide – for preventing diseases
Florikan 14-5-14 Color Change fertilizer – lasts 6 months!
Mulches – mini nuggets, soil conditioner, or shredded pine
Monty’s Joy Juice – for liquid fertilizer applications

Winterizing Your Irrigation System

Every year, before the first freeze, the ritual of irrigation “blow out” becomes the priority for all irrigation systems that are in regions of the country where the frost level extends below the depth of the installed piping.

Even if you have drained some water out of the system, the remaining water can freeze, expand and crack the PVC piping (rigid, white pipe), usually from fitting to fitting. Polyethylene pipe (flexible, black pipe) is used in many freezing climates. Although polyethylene pipe is more flexible and can expand under pressure, water left inside could freeze and rupture the pipe walls. Freezing water in the backflow assembly will damage the internal components and could possibly crack the brass body.

To minimize the risk of freeze damage to your irrigation system, you’ll need to “winterize” your irrigation system

Irrigation systems in areas where “winterization” is mandatory are installed using one of three types of water removal in mind: manual drain, auto drain, or blowout. If you don’t know your system type, it would be best to use the blowout method.

“Blow Out” Method

WARNING! WEAR ANSI APPROVED SAFETY EYE PROTECTION! Extreme care must always be taken when blowing out the system with compressed air. Compressed air can cause serious injury, including serious eye injury, from flying debris. Always wear ANSI approved safety eye protection and do not stand over any irrigation components (pipes, sprinklers and valves) during air blow out. SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT IF YOU DO NOT PROCEED AS RECOMMENDED!

It is recommended that a qualified licensed contractor perform this type of “Winterization” method. The blow out method utilizes an air compressor with a Cubic Foot per Minute (CFM) rating of 80-100 for any mainline of 2″ or less. These types of compressors can be rented at your local equipment rental yard. The compressor is attached to the mainline via a quick coupler, hose bib or other type connection, which is located after the backflow device. Compressed air should not be blown through any backflow device. To start the “blow out”, shut off the irrigation water supply and, with the compressor valve in the closed position, attach the air compressor hose to the fitting. Activate the station on the controller that is the zone or sprinklers highest in elevation and the furthest from the compressor. Close the backflow isolation valves. Then slowly open the valve on the compressor; this should gradually introduce air into the irrigation system. The blow out pressure should remain below the maximum operating pressure specification of the lowest pressure rated component on that zone and should NEVER exceed 80 PSI.

Each station/zone should be activated starting from the furthest station/zone from the compressor slowly working your way to the closest station/zone to the compressor. Each station/zone should be activated until no water can be seen exiting the heads, this should take approximately two minutes or more per station/zone. It is better to use two or three short cycles per station/zone than to have one long cycle. Once the station/zone is dry, you should not continue to blow air through the pipe. Compressed air moving through dry pipes can cause friction, which will create heat and the heat could cause damage.